Pinch Pot: Vase
To join the two halves of our pinch pots together, we had to slip and score them, meaning we lacerated the clay on the two surfaces we wanted to attach and put on slippery liquid clay. If it weren't scored and slipped, the smooth surfaces would hardly be attached at all. The choppy surfaces with the slip in between become one. Achieving symmetry on my piece was difficult, especially since my two halves weren't exactly the same size, and the opening at the top was too small for me to stick my hand in and support the clay while I molded it. When I had the halves the same thickness, they weren't a uniform height all around, so I cut them level. Once joined, I had to hit the clay with a wooden paddle while rotating it to equalize the sizes. I also applied equal, hard pressure on the sides using a rib tool to get rid of the pinching bumps. For the handles, I tried to make them the same thickness when I pulled them and score the places for attachment at the same heights on either side. I used a piece of clay under the top attachment of one handle to keep it from sagging. I still haven't decided how I want to glaze the piece, and I also don't know if some of the glazes have to be fired at different temperatures and therefore can't be used on the same piece like some I've used in the past. In the next few weeks I hope to get this piece finished and glazed and start on my coil piece. Unfortunately, one of my very thin handles just broke, but I'm excited to learn methods of re-joining dried clay, which I've never done before
To join the two halves of our pinch pots together, we had to slip and score them, meaning we lacerated the clay on the two surfaces we wanted to attach and put on slippery liquid clay. If it weren't scored and slipped, the smooth surfaces would hardly be attached at all. The choppy surfaces with the slip in between become one. Achieving symmetry on my piece was difficult, especially since my two halves weren't exactly the same size, and the opening at the top was too small for me to stick my hand in and support the clay while I molded it. When I had the halves the same thickness, they weren't a uniform height all around, so I cut them level. Once joined, I had to hit the clay with a wooden paddle while rotating it to equalize the sizes. I also applied equal, hard pressure on the sides using a rib tool to get rid of the pinching bumps. For the handles, I tried to make them the same thickness when I pulled them and score the places for attachment at the same heights on either side. I used a piece of clay under the top attachment of one handle to keep it from sagging. I still haven't decided how I want to glaze the piece, and I also don't know if some of the glazes have to be fired at different temperatures and therefore can't be used on the same piece like some I've used in the past. In the next few weeks I hope to get this piece finished and glazed and start on my coil piece. Unfortunately, one of my very thin handles just broke, but I'm excited to learn methods of re-joining dried clay, which I've never done before
Do you remember what you fired your clay to before? Either way, we have a lot of options here and I am sure you will find something you are very pleased with.
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